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In 1968, when he opened his own company, the New York fashion industry was in a depressed period, with casual hippie-style clothing and the miniskirt defining the range of fashions.
In 1968, Calvin Klein set up his own business, Calvin Klein Inc., with a friend Barry Schwartz.
In 1968, Klein founded Calvin Klein Limited, a coat shop in the York Hotel in New York City, with $10,000.
Klein's first Vogue cover was in September 1969, with his classically cut outerwear featured prominently in the New York fall preview editorial inside.
In 1970, Klein was presented with the COTY award and was honoured with the prize for the next three consecutive years.
The fledgling company booked $1 million worth of business in its first year, reaching sales volume of $5 million by 1971.
In 1971, he began to add new lines to his brand, including women’s lingerie, blazers and sportswear.
Klein mainly designed women's coats and two-piece suits until 1972, when he began concentrating on sporty sweaters, skirts, dresses, shirts, and pants that could be mixed and matched for a complete wardrobe.
In 1973, he received his first Coty American Fashion Critics' Award for his 74-piece womenswear collection – the youngest recipient at that time.
That fiscal year (ending June 30, 1975) the firm shipped $12 million worth of merchandise, including swimsuits and dresses.
He received an unprecedented third consecutive Coty Award for women's wear in 1975 and, at age 32, was elected to the group's Hall of Fame.
The most groundbreaking piece of sportswear Klein showed on the runway first appeared in spring 1976: a slim-cut pair of jeans with his name embroidered on the back pocket.
By 1976, Klein’s licensing deals alone made the company $6 million.
He then hired Stanley Kohlenberg, announcing the hire in January 28, 1977’s edition of WWD. Kohlenberg, who hadn’t yet told his boss, was escorted out of the Revlon premises and started working for Klein on February 1.
In 1977, Klein also embarked on launching menswear.
By 1977, Calvin Klein had reached an annual turnover of $30 million.
In 1978 Klein began designing a menswear collection that was licensed to Maurice Biderman.
By 1978, with Puritan Fashions as manufacturer, Klein was selling 2 million pairs of jeans per month.
By 1979 Calvin Klein was second to Gloria Vanderbilt in designer-jeans sales, with one-fifth of the market.
On January 30, 1980, Taylor bought the cosmetics part of Klein.
Introduced in 1980, Calvin Klein jeans helped lead the company to success during the designer blue jeans craze.
In 1980, Calvin Klein had bout seven percent of Puritan stock, with Klein representing 40% of Puritans’ overall income.
The fragrance and cosmetics business was sold to Minnetonka, Inc. in 1980.
These products accounted for about $100 million in sales in 1980.
By 1981, Fortune figured Klein's annual income at $8.5 million.
By 1982, Calvin Klein jeans was responsible for 95% of Puritans volume.
In 1982 Puritan Fashions--nine percent owned by Klein and Schwartz--had sales of $245.6 million, of which licensed Calvin Klein products accounted for about 94 percent, earning $15.6 million in royalties for the firm.
By 1983 Calvin Klein, whose eponymous fragrance had produced a lukewarm reception four years earlier, was ready to give perfume another try.
Calvin Klein Industries had 1984 revenue of $258.2 million and net income of $17.2 million, with Klein and Schwartz each collecting $12 million in salary, dividends, and other distributions.
Klein won a CFDA award in 1986 for both his men's and women's collections, the first time a designer had won both awards in the same year.
And indeed, in late 1987, it was said that the sale of the company to Triangle Industries, a container manufacturer, had only failed because of the crashing stock market.
To complement Obsession, an oriental fragrance, in 1988 Calvin Klein introduced a floral scent, dubbed Eternity, which was marketed in perfume, cologne, cologne-spray, and body-cream forms.
Also in 1989, Calvin Klein opened its first full-line free-standing store, in a Dallas suburb.
Minnetonka (14 percent owned by the Calvin Klein Sport division) was sold in 1989, with the Calvin Klein cosmetics/fragrance line fetching $376.2 million from Unilever Co.'s Chesebrough-Pond's subsidiary.
The company's revenue dropped 13 percent, to $197 million, in 1990 leading to a $4.3 million loss, the third time in five years the company had been in the red.
A sexually suggestive, 116-page, insert for Calvin Klein Jeans in Vanity Fair in October 1991 failed to stimulate sales, prompting American retailers to contend that Klein had fallen out of touch with their customers.
By 1991, the company continued to do well in their underwear and fragrance divisions, but the company had mounting longstanding debts against it, which came from the days of the Puritans takeover.
In 1991 Calvin Klein introduced a new silk-scarf collection licensed to Ray Strauss Unlimited.
In order to ease some of the financial strain, record producer David Geffen purchased $60 million of the company's junk bond debt in 1992.
Made famous by a series of 1992 print ads featuring Mark "Marky Mark" Wahlberg, they have been called "one of the greatest apparel revolutions of the century."
The cK line, largely inspired by these vintage collection pieces, was recognized by the CFDA with an award in 1993.
In 1993, Calvin Klein broke the mould again, when he introduced his unisex scent, ‘cK One’.
In 1993, Calvin Klein was the subject of a biography that portrayed him as a drug addict during the Studio 54 designer jeans years.
Mark Wahlberg at the Calvin Klein Runway Show, 1993
In a 1993 Washington Post article, Cathy Horyn noted that a cashmere dress of Klein’s “was a good deal more original than Klein’s previous delvings into beige, which is Armani terra firma.” Armani himself said that he first thought he had a window in Saks when he saw Klein’s menswear suiting.
Warnaco purchased the underwear division in 1994.
A shared-gender fragrance, cK One, was launched in 1994.
Gabriella Forte, a former Giorgio Armani executive, became the company's president in 1994 and was put in charge of day to day administration.
A 1995 article from The Columbian reported that Klein was investigated by the Justice Department and their Child Exploitation and Obscenity Section.
By 1995, when it opened a four-level, 22,000-square-foot minimalist-style emporium at Madison Avenue and East 60th Street in Manhattan, Calvin Klein had six stores in the United States.
In 1995 Calvin Klein launched, under license, a home collection composed of sheets, towels, and tableware.
By 1996, accusations of Klein copying other designers were so strong that he faxed over his collection to press when the trends from Milan started emerging.
In 1996 worldwide retail sales of Calvin Klein products reached $4.4 billion.
Named by Time in 1996 as one of the 25 most influential Americans, Klein made his impact not only by designing but also by marketing his wares through high-visibility advertisements created by the company's in-house agency, CRK Advertising.
Calvin Klein's approximately 400 in-store shops earned $5.1 billion in revenue during 1997, approximately 28 percent of which was earned in Europe.
In 1997 Calvin Klein, Inc. was 43 percent owned by the designer and 43 percent owned by Schwartz, who was chairman and chief executive officer.
PVH outbid VF Corp., the maker of Lee and Wrangler jeans, which had also been interested in the jeans, underwear and swimwear business of CK that had been controlled by Warnaco Group, maker of Speedo swimwear in the US, since 1997.
In March 1998 Calvin Klein opened a new store in Rome's shopping district near the Spanish Steps.
socha, miles. "rebuilding calvin's jeans." women's wear daily, 5 march 1998.
More than 6,000 counterfeit units of CK One, Escape, Eternity, and Obsession were found in an April 1998 seizure alone.
Calvin Klein's latest scent, Contradiction, became one of the best-selling women's scents in the United States (ranked fourth in sales), according to a May 1998 article in Women's Wear Daily.
In May 1998, it was announced that Crown Crafts, Inc. entered into a long-term international licensing agreement with Calvin Klein, Inc. to manufacture and distribute Calvin Klein soft home furnishings.
The company expects revenues to increase 15 percent during 1998.
The product line is planned for launch in Europe in the spring of 1999, supported by advertising and public relations campaigns.
The new line was scheduled to be in stores in the spring of 1999 for distribution to upmarket retailers through GFT showrooms in Milan, Madrid, Paris, Dusseldorf, and London.
In 1999 Klein announced that he and Schwartz were looking for a buyer for his company.
A New York Times article from 2002 reported on the sale, noting that Klein wouldn’t have creative control anymore.
In 2003 Klein sold his company to Phillips–Van Heusen (later called PVH) in a deal valued at some $430 million with up to $300 million in future royalties.
In a 2010 report, PVH, who manages the ready-to-wear activities, had estimated sales of €4.6 billion of Calvin Klein products.
In February 2013, Warnaco Group was acquired by PVH which united Calvin Klein formal, underwear, jeans and sportswear lines.
CK ran a successful campaign in 2016, to represent all of it’s clothing simultaneously, as it was one where their audience could get involved with by sharing what they do in their Calvin’s.
Global retail sales of Calvin Klein brand products exceeded $9 billion in 2019 and were distributed in over 110 countries.
In 2020, PVH announced that as part of their animal welfare policy, the company does not use exotic skins and would be banning their use in Calvin Klein collections when "our annual update of that policy is released."
His annual income passed $12 million (equivalent to $29.89 million in 2022).
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| Company name | Founded date | Revenue | Employee size | Job openings |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ralph Lauren | 1967 | $6.6B | 18,250 | 428 |
| Abercrombie & Fitch Co | 1892 | $4.9B | 44,000 | 2,554 |
| Versace | 1978 | $1.8B | 1,500 | 20 |
| Gap Inc. | 1969 | $15.1B | 117,000 | 47 |
| The Donna Karan Company LLC | 1984 | $440.0M | 3,000 | - |
| Kenneth Cole | 1982 | $2.4M | 15 | - |
| Burberry | 1856 | - | 9,752 | 16 |
| Shoe Carnival | 1978 | $1.2B | 2,300 | 664 |
| Vans | 1966 | $520.0M | 2,124 | 273 |
| IZOD | 1922 | $94.0M | 10,001 | - |
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